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Life Cycle

Artificial Lights

Soil

Garden Setup

Growing Methods

Harvest

Marijuana Seeds Catalogue

Grow room pic.

NICOPAL

The Marijuana High
It's a complex experience, involving a wide range of psychical, physical, and emotional responses. Based on one's personality, mood, disposition, and experience with the drug. The intensity of the high depends primarily on the amount of THC present in the marijuana. Most people will get high from a joint containing only 0.5% of THC. Grass containing 3% of THC would be considered excellent quality. Once the legal restrictions are removed, marijuana will probably be sold by particular blends of cannabinoids and standard amounts of THC.

Beliefs
Many people consider potency and resin concentration synonymous. People hear of plants oozing or gushing with copious resin, and the image is of resin flowing in the plant like the latex of the rubber tree or the sap of a maple tree. But these visions are just pipe dreams. It is quite possible to have a resinous plant with little potency or a plant with little apparent resin which is very potent. Potency depends primarily on the concentration of THC in the plant material. Many more substances besides the cannabinoids make up the crude resin of Cannabis.

Psychoactive THC
In fresh plant material, cannabinoids are almost entirely in their acid forms. In fact, in their acid forms the cannabinoids are not psychoactive. The normal procedure of curing and smoking the grass (heat) removes the carboxyl group, forming the gas CO2 and the psychoactive neutral cannabinoids. Removing the CO2 is important only if you plan to eat the marijuana. It is then necessary to apply heat (baking) for the cannabinoids to become psychoactive. Ten minutes of baking marijuana at 200F is enough to convert the THC acids to neutral THC.

Smell
The cannabinoids are odorless; most of the sweet, distinctive, pleasant "minty" fragrance and taste of fresh marijuana comes from five substances that are the mono- and sesqui-terpenes, alpha- and bet-pinene, limonene, myrcene and beta-phalandrene. The oils are volatile and enter the air quickly, dissipating with time. When connoisseurs sample the bouquet of a grass sample, they are basically determining whether it is fresh. Fresh grass means fresh cannabinoids and less of these are likely to have been degraded to non-psychoactive products.

Seeds
Depending on the variety, healthy mature seeds vary in size between 3mm and 6 mm in length. From any variety, choose seeds that are plump and well formed with well developed colour. Seed colours range from a buff through a dark brown, and from light grey to almost black colours. Often seeds are mottled with brown or black spots, bars, or lines on a lighter field. Green or whitish seeds are usually immature and will germinate feebly if at all. Fresh seeds have a waxy glimmer and a hard, intact shell. Shiny, very dark brown or black seeds often mean the contents are fermented and the embryo is dead. Fermented seeds crush easily with finger pressure and are hollow or dusty inside. Seeds that are bruised or crushed are also not viable.

Life Cycle
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Cannabis is an annual plant. A single season completes a generation, leaving all hope for the future to the seeds.
Germination: Water is absorbed, and the embryo's tissues swell and grow, splitting the seed along its structure. The root directs growth downward in response to gravity. Now anchored by the roots and receiving water and nutrients, the embryonic leaves unfold. They are a pair of small, somewhat oval, simple leaves, now green with chlorophyll to absorb the life-giving light. The process of germination is usually completed in three to ten days.
Seedling: The second pair of leaves begins the seedling stage. They are set opposite each other and usually have a single blade and differ from the embryonic leaves by their larger size, spearhead shape, and serrated margins. The next pair of leaves usually has three blades and is larger. Each new set of leaves will be larger, with a higher number of blades per leave until, depending on variety; they reach their maximum number, often nine or eleven. The seedling stage is completed within four to six weeks.
Vegetative growth: The period of maximum growth. The plant can grow no faster than the rate that its leaves can produce energy for new growth. Each day more leaf tissue is created, increasing the overall capacity for growth. The number of blades on each leaf begins to decline during the middle of the vegetative stage. Then the arrangement of the leaves on the stem changes from the usual opposite to alternate. The growth appears to be thicker. Branches which appeared in the axils of each set of leaves grow and shape the plant to its characteristic form. The vegetative stage is usually completed in the third to fifth months of growth.
Preflowering: A period of one to two weeks during which growth slows considerably. Ends with the appearance of the first flowers.
Flowering: Each plant produces either male or female flowers, and is considered either a male or female plant. Male plants usually start flowering about one month before the female; however there is sufficient overlap to ensure pollination. The male flowers are quite small, about 6mm, and are pale green, yellow, or red/purple. The female flower consists of two small 6 to 12mm long, fuzzy white stigmas raised in a V sign and attached at the base to an ovule, which is contained in a tiny green pod. The female flowers develop tightly together to form dense clusters (buds). The bloom continues until pollen from the male flowers reaches the female flowers, fertilizing them and beginning the formation of seeds. Flowering usually lasts about one to two months.
Seed set: A fertilized female flower develops a single seed. After pollination, mature, viable seeds take from ten days to five weeks to develop. When seeds are desired, the plant is harvested when enough seeds have reached full colour. A life cycle of Cannabis is usually completed in four to nine month. Cannabis is a long night (short day) plant. When exposed to a period of two weeks of long nights, that is, 13hours or more of continuous darkness each night, the plants respond by flowering and developing seeds, ending its cycle…

Artificial Lights
Start the plants under long light periods of 16 to 18 hours daily. After the plants have reached a good size, usually between three and six month, shorten the light cycle to about 12 hours to force flowering. The plants should be at least five feet tall by now. But you are under control when to shorten the light cycle, and forcing them to flower.

Potency in descending order

Female flowering cluster

Male flowering cluster

Growing shoots

Leaves (the smaller the better)

Petioles (leaf stalks)(the smaller the better)

Stems (the smaller the better)

Seeds and roots (not worth it)

The highest potency of the male and female plant is reached when they are in their full bloom. The male plant just before it releases the pollen (but we wait till it is released for the female plant) and the female before the seeds mature. Even the male is able to reach up to 3%. The female usually up to 4%THC… You can harvest the growing tips, which are quite potent after three month of growing (chronological age) (when it changes from opposite to alternate growth (physiological age)). The plant then will be forced to develop its branches yielding a bigger plant. Chronological age is not as important as physiological age. The life cycle depends on the particular variety and the growing conditions, which strongly influence the rate of development.

Indoor Gardening

Artificial Lights
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Fluorescent light is the most effective source for the home grower. They require a fixture, which contains the lamp sockets, and a ballast (transformer) which works on ordinary house current. The most common and suitable are four to eight foot lengths. Overhead space must be sufficient to hang and easily raise the fixture through a height of at least six feet as the plants grow. The more light you give to the plants, the faster and larger they will grow. We recommend at least 20Watts per square foot. The minimum size garden contains a four foot fixture with two 40Watt tubes, which use a total of 80Watts. Dividing total watts by the recommended 20W/per square foot gives us an area of one by four feet. The more watts the better but it will use more electricity as well. For maximum use of electricity and space, about 40W/sq.ft. is the highest advisable. Under this much light the growth rate is incredible. There are regular and HO (high output), VHO (very high output) and SHO (super high output) lamps, where the last two give about two and a half times the amount of light of an HO and use nearly three times the electricity.

Light Colors
Plants appear green because they absorb more light near the ends of the spectrum (red and blue) and reflect and transmit more light in the middle of the spectrum (green and yellow). The light energy absorbed is used for photosynthesis. For normal development the plants require a combination of red and blue light.

Fluorescents
Several lighting manufacturers make tubes (gro-tubes) that produce much of their light in the critical red and blue bands. Most look purple or pink. Some tubes produce a white light with a natural spectrum very similar to daylight. They are usually more expensive but last twice as long. Theoretically, these tubes should work better for growing plants than standard lighting tubes. However, some standard or regular fluorescent tubes for lighting actually work better for growing plants than more expensive natural spectrum tubes and gro-tubes specifically manufactured for plant growth. The reason is that regular fluorescents produce more light (lumens), and overall lumen output is more important for growth rate than a specific light spectrum. Use them in combination of one blue to two red tubes. The best combinations are either WarmWhite or SoftWhite (red) tubes used with either CoolWhite or Daylight (blue) tubes. These types are common, much cheaper, and when used in combination, will give you a better return than any of the more expensive gro-tubes or natural spectrum tubes and any hardware store carries these common lighting tubes.

HID Lamps
HID's (High-Intensity-Discharge) are the lamps of choice for the serious indoor gardeners. HID lamps commonly illuminate streets, parking lots etc. and they emit very intense light and produce more light, more efficiently than fluorescents. All HID's require specific ballasts and fixtures to operate, so purchase complete systems (fixture, ballast, reflector) along with the lamp. Contact an advertiser out of a magazine for brochures. Make sure to purchase MH bulbs designed with safety feature that cause the bulb to burn out immediately if the outer envelope ruptures (bulb breaks). Sizes less than 400W do not return as much marijuana considering set up costs and ease of operation. The exceptions are self-contained mini units of 150-175W. These units have a horizontal fixture and built in ballast (transformer), which is easy to set up. The intense light encourages excellent growth and bud formation with modest electrical consumption. They are the best overall light system for small, personal gardens such as closet set-ups. Position lamps18-30 Inches above plant (heat). Heat is the main problem with HID's and the room must be well ventilated. Use exhaust fans to draw heat out of the room.

Garden Setup
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Under artificial light, marijuana grows from three to six feet in three months, so the height of the lights must be easy to adjust. Fixtures can be hung from the ceiling, shelves, walls, or from a simple frame constructed for the purpose. Closets have hooks and shelves or clothes rungs that are usually sturdy enough to support the fixture. Chains are the easiest means for raising and lowering fixtures. Two chains can be suspended from a solid support from above, and attached to an S hook at each end of the fixture. Raise the fixture by inching the hooks to higher links on the chain. You can also hang the lights permanently and lower the plants on a shelf or plywood. The shelf could be suspended or lowered by supporting the shelf with progressively smaller blocks. This arrangement is often used in growing factories where plants are rotated to larger gardens and grow for only a few weeks in each space. For fluorescents, you can make an overhead reflector from the cardboard cartons they came in. Cut off the end flaps and form the cardboard into an U. Face the inner sides with aluminum foil or paint them white. Leave enough space so the foil or cardboard does not contact end sockets. Staple or tape the reflector behind the tubes to the fixture or frame to reflect the light to the plants. Surround all gardens with reflective surfaces, but not so tightly that air can't freely circulate. Even in window gardens, reflective sheets set adjacent to the plants make a marked difference in growth. When artificial lights are high, reflectors from the floor on up keep lower branches actively growing. Mylar, with its mirror finish, is popular for facing walls. A flat white paint (super or decorator white) reflects better than glossy white or aluminum foil. Flat white has about three percent more reflecting capacity than aluminum foil, and reflects light more uniformly. The difference is slight, so use whatever means is more convenient. You can put white painted cardboard around the plants as reflector, even a natural light garden benefits from it. Protect your floor and downstairs neighbour's ceiling from water damage with a plastic dropcloth. Marijuana grows well in a dry atmosphere, but heated or air-conditioned homes are sometimes too dry during germination and early growth. Enclosing the garden in reflectors will contain some of the moisture and insure a healthy humidity. Do not completely enclose a garden. Leave some open spaces at the bottom and top ends to allow air to circulate. Air circulation will become more important as the plants grow larger. Protect your garden from animals and kids…

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Electricity
For most growers, the amount of electricity used is of little concern. A four-tube, regular output, eight-foot fixture draws about 320W per hour or about the same as a colour TV. Fluorescent light fixtures are sometimes sold unwired or without a line cord, and the job is left to you. Follow the diagram on the ballast, which shows the wires marked by their colour. Simply attach the wires to the sockets as diagrammed. New sockets have small holes which automatically make contact when the bare end of the wire is pushed into them. Older fixtures have sockets with conventional screw terminals. Indoor gardens may have aluminum foil, chains, reflectors, and wet floors, all of which are good electrical conductors. Coupled with hanging lights, these conditions could lead to dangerous electrical shocks. Never touch a reflector, fixture, or ballast while watering or standing on a damp floor. Eliminate the chance of serious shocks altogether by turning off the lights whenever you work in the garden. A HID ballast (transformer) on a damp floor is very dangerous. Raise HID ballast on wood blocks off the floor. Reduce the risks by using fixtures grounded to the power source. A fixture with a three-pronged plug connected to a three-wire outlet is grounded in a properly wired house.

Soil

Soil and Containers
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In nature, marijuana may grow an extensive root system- a fibrous network of fine; lateral roots that branch of a main, carrot shaped taproot. If dry the taproot may grow up to six feet deep in its search for water. In moist areas with fertile soil (such as potting mixtures), the lateral roots are able to supply water and nutritive needs and the tap root remains small, often only 8 to 10cm long on a seven foot mature plant. Most growers use containers that will hold between 8 and 20 liters of soil. These are a good compromise in terms of weight, space, cost, and labor. They can be moved easily and hold an adequate reservoir of water and nutrients to support a large mature plant. Determine the right size of pot to use in your garden by the amount of light per square foot. 15W to 25W per square foot use 4 to 12 liter containers and for more light energy use 12 to 32 liter containers. Each pot must have several holes in the bottom to assure drainage. Many growers prefer to start the plants in smaller pots, transplanting them when the plants are larger. There are definitive advantages to this method in terms of the yield of the garden, given its space and light energy. Seedlings and small plants take up much less space than they will at maturity, so they can be placed closer together. As the plants grow and begin to crowd each other, remove the less vigorous plants (to smoke) and transplant the rest into larger pots.

Properties of Soil
The soil serves as a source and reservoir for water, air, and nutrients, and to anchor the roots. Since marijuana grows extremely fast, it has higher water and nutritive needs than most plants grown indoors. The success of your garden depends on supplying the plant with a medium that meets its needs without creating toxic conditions in the process. For healthy full growth, marijuana prefers a soil with good drainage (texture), high in available nutrients (nutrients), and near a neutral pH (7.0) (pH). Most indoor growers prepare the soil using commercial potting mixes. These mixes are usually sterilized or pasteurized and have good general soil properties. Do some simple test of you basic soil whether you buy or dig it. Then you can adjust the soil to the needs of the plant.
Texture: The texture of the soil determines its water holding and draining properties. Marijuana must have a well-drained soil for healthy growth. Soils that hold to much water or hold it unevenly can drown the roots, leading to poor growth or death of the plant. You can determine the texture of your soil from its appearance and feel. Dry soil should never cake or form crusts. Mix this kind of soil with material that decreases its water holding capacity with sand, perlite or even kitty litter. Soil that feels heavy and looks dense with fine particulate matter, or is sandy or gritty, will benefit by loosened and lightened with fibrous material such as vermiculite, Jiffy mix, or sometimes sphagnum moss.
Nutrients: Nutrients are essential minerals necessary for plant growth. The major nutrients are NITROGEN (N), PHOSPHORUS (P), and POTASSIUM (K), which correspond to the three numbers, in that order, that appear on fertilizer and manure packages, and that give the percentage of each nutrient in the mix. Marijuana prefers a soil that is rich in Nitrogen, and mid-range in Phosphorus and Potassium. Generally the darker the soil the more available nutrients it contains. Commercial soils usually contain a good balance of all nutrients and will support healthy growth for a month or two. Many growers enrich their soil by adding sterilized manures, compost, or humus. A good mixture is one part compost or manure to five to eight parts of soil. These mixtures might provide all the nutrients the plant will ever need. Too much compost or others will result in drainage problems and make the soil too acidic. It's always better to use combinations of organic fertilizers than one alone. Chemical fertilizers are made in about every conceivable combination and concentration. Pick one that is complete and where the first number (N) is at least equal to if not higher than both (P) and (K). The higher the number the more concentrated the mix is and the more nutrients are available. Don't use fertilizers which come in pellets or capsules or that are labeled TIMED or SLOW RELEASE. They do not work as well indoors as do standard organic and chemical fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers seldom list the amount to mix per pot. You can get some idea by the instructions for application per square foot. Use that amount for each one half cubic foot of soil mixture. Fertilize every two weeks with a tablespoon of fertilizer with 4 liters of water till flowering than discontinue unless the plant shows a deficiency of nutrients.
pH: The pH is a convenient measure of the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. It is another way of expressing whether the soil is bitter (alkaline) or sour (acid). The pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. 7.0 is assigned neutral, above is alkaline, and below is acid. The simplest way to test the soil is with a test-kit from a garden shop or nursery. Litmus papers or Nitrazine tape simply change colour to tell you the pH of your soil. The pH of acid soil is raised by adding lime compounds (calcium containing). Some are hydrated lime, limestone, marl, or oyster shells, graded by their particle size or fineness. Finer grades are better because of more neutralizing potential. For indoor gardens use hydrated lime available in hardware stores or wood ashes to raise the pH. Wood ashes will neutralize soil acids roughly one half as well as hydrated lime. However, they also contain some nutrients (potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, and micronutrients). The pH does not have to be exact. In general, add three cups of hydrated lime or six cups of fine woodash to every large bag of 50 pounds or a cubic foot of soil to raise pH one point.

Soil Characteristics
The most important point is good drainage. If your soil lists manures and composts as additives, add no more than 10% of these on your own. Too much of them cause drainage problems. Drainage problems sometimes develop after several months of healthy growth. It is a good idea to add about 20% sand or perlite to even a well-drained soil. Mixtures using many components in combination seem to work particularly well.

Potting
To pot any mixture, first cover any large drainage holes with a square of window screen or newspaper to prevent the mixture from running out. Place a layer of sand, perlite, or gravel about 2.5cm deep to insure drainage. Fill the pots with soil mixture to within 2cm from the top of the pot. If your mixture contains manures or composts, cover the last 2 or 4cm with mixture without manures or composts. This will prevent flies, gnats, molds, and other pests from being attracted to the garden. Press spongy soils firmly (not tightly) to allow for more soil in each pot, otherwise, after a period of watering, the soil will settle and the pot will no longer be full. Some growers add a few brads or nails to each pot to supply the plant with iron, one of the necessary nutrients. Water the pots and allow them to stand for a day or two before planting. As the soil becomes evenly moist, beneficial bacteria begin to grow and nutrients start to dissolve.

Digging Soil
Choose a soil from a healthy garden or field, or from an area that supports a lush growth of annual weeds. Fields that support a good crop of alfalfa, corn or other grains will support a good crop of marijuana. Fields with beets, carrots, and sugar cane indicate a well-drained soil, with near neutral pH. Red clover, sweet clover, and bluegrass have soil requirements similar to those of marijuana. Good soil will look dark, feel moist, and smell clean and earthy. A rich layer of topsoil can be found by walls, fences, and hedges where leaves and debris collect and decay to a rich humus. Soil that is dug should be tested and treated the same way as already prescribed. Soil that is dug must be sterilized to kill weed seeds, insect eggs, and harmful molds and fungi. Some chemical treatments are mixed with water and poured over the soil to sterilize it. Soil can also be sterilized in a pressure cooker at 15 pounds pressure for 15min, or by baking wet soil in a large pot at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 to 40 min.

Growing Methods
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There are several ways to increase your garden's yield. Four of the methods are listed below.
1. Start several plants in large containers (about 20L) but thin the seedlings over a period of six weeks to two month, until one plant is left in each pot. During the fourth or fifth week of growth, pinch back the plants to about equal heights. Cut the growing shoot at about the fourth internode. Each plant will develop a sturdy stem that will support four to eight growing stems. After another month or two, you cut back the growing shoots again to have plants of equal heights. Remove the male plants as soon as they begin to release pollen (or before any male flowers open if you want sinsemilla). By the time the females flower, they've been cut back two or three times or more, and form a dense growth of growing shoots that will fill the garden with a cubic layer of flowers. Be careful with thinning the seedlings cause the male plants are stronger in the first stage so if you are not careful you might end up with only male plants. Thin them when you are sure.
2. This method also requires large pots. Instead of thinning the seedlings to leave one per pot, leave at least three. After a few month of growth, remove any plants that lag far behind or any plants that show male flowers. The value of this method is that the odds are at least seven to one that any pot will have at least one female plant.
3. Another popular way of growing is to start plants in a large number of small pots. As the plants crowd each other, some are removed and the rest transplanted to larger pots.
4. When the plants are young a large number fit into a small space. Some growers take advantage of this fact by having several light systems, each with plants at different growth stages. The plants are rotated into larger gardens and pots. This method conserves space, materials, and electricity, and yields a harvest every two month. This kind of growing factory will give you a steady supply of potent grass.

Light cycle and distance to the plants
The sprout does need light as soon as it breaks through the soil. It is important for normal development that the plants receive a regulated day/night cycle (electric timer). The plants need 16 to 18 hours of light a day, and that for the first three to six months till you decide to trigger flowering. Place the lights as close as possible without burning the plant. With standard wattage tubes keep the lights from 5 to 15cm above the plants. With VHO tubes allow10 to 20cm. Standard fluorescent don't get hot enough to burn the plant unless they get in direct contact with it for several hours. VHO tubes will burn the plant before they touch them. You can test the distance by feeling for heat with your hands.

Water and Air
Water with common sense. Not too much and not too little water. How much and how often to water the plant depends on size of plant and pot, soil composition, and the temperature, humidity, and circulation of the air just to name a few. The air in our homes is usually not a problem for the plant. The plants can withstand temperatures from freezing to 40C. The average temperature for maximum growth is around 25C, so indoor temperature is good enough for marijuana growth. In basement gardens the floor temperature is usually lower than the air. It is a good idea to raise the pots off the floor. The seeds will germinate quicker and the plants get off to a faster start.

Harvest
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The male plant: when male flowers open and are about to release pollen they reach their maximum potency. Since all flowers do not mature at the same time, for maximum potency the plants should be harvested after the first few flowers have opened.
The female plant: the decision of when to harvest females can be simplified by understanding that you want to pick the buds after they have developed fully, but before degradation processes begin to lower potency.
Sinsemilla: here use the conditions of the buds to make your decision. Stigmas wither first at the base of the buds (older flowers). Those stigmas at the end of the buds (younger) will still be white and healthy, although their tips are often brown. Harvest the plants when about half the stigmas in the buds have withered. The coating of resin glands should still be clear or white, with only a few golden or browned gland heads. On some plants you may choose to harvest buds individually as they ripen.

Double Harvest
Most Marijuana plants will take at least five months to reach maturity. You can often induce the females to flower a second time. To encourage a second bloom, first take the bulk of the harvest, all but the smallest buds, and most of the leaf. Some green leaves should be left to maintain the plant's growth. After harvesting, give the plants a thorough watering, and water with a soluble, complete fertilizer that provides a good supply of both N and P. This will encourage new growth and continued flowering. The second crop will be ready for harvest in four to eight weeks. If the second crop of buds forms quickly you should try for a third time…

Drying
There are several methods use to evaporate the water in cannabis plants, these have little effect on potency, but can affect the taste, bouquet, and smoothness of the smoke. Generally, the slower the dry, the smoother the taste. Excess drying and drying methods that use heat will evaporate some of the volatile oils that give each grass its unique taste and aroma.
Slow drying: mostly whole plants are hung upside down from a string or nail on a wall in a dark room or closet. A large number of plants may take a week or two. Keep an eye on the plants during the drying process, if mold appears, the plants should be dried quickly under moderate heat. Buds usually smoke smooth and develop a pliable consistency. Slow dried ripe buds retain their delicious, sweet aroma and taste.
Fast drying: this method produces a harsher smoke than slow drying. They are dried the same way as in the slow drying process except that the temperature is increased to 35 to 45C degrees with heaters. The drying area is kept well ventilated with a fan. Plants are often hung to dry above radiators or steam pipes. Fast dried marijuana retains its original green colour and minty taste.
Oven drying: This method is used for small quantities usually to try and sample crop. Place a tray, with spread out marijuana, in the oven at 150 to 200F degrees for about ten minutes. Oven dried marijuana usually has a harsh taste and bite, and loses much of its bouquet.

Storage
Marijuana loses most potency throughout contact with light and heat. So best stored it is in room temperature or below and in darkness. This way you can store it for up to two years without losing an insignificant amount of THC. The best place to store it is in a dark container in a fridge or freezer. Many growers place a fresh lemon, orange, or lime peel in with each lid of grass. The peel helps to retain moisture, which keeps the buds pliable, and also gives it a pleasant bouquet.

There is a tradition between humans and this plant that goes back 10000 years; you are now part of this continuing tradition…

Happy smoking!!!

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